The clue
On several occasions in our bumpy relationship Friend has sent me here. But this was our first visit together, and we’d already argued. There was just too much to see, and we’d had to whittle down our list of memorials and museums devoted to the city’s inventors, writers and products. To be frank, there’d been painful compromises.
First I’d shot down Friend’s request to see a heritage center devoted to the work of an engineer and pilot (mother, Sara). It had powered a transport revolution. Not surprisingly — given our location — we were cycling and, with rain threatening, the ride to the venue (more than two miles south-southeast of the city center) looked risky. “Using black cabs would have been just as

